There’s an adage in watch collecting: “Everyone should own a Speedmaster.” I took that to heart early in my watch journey. I thought that if owning a Speedmaster was a prerequisite to being a “watch guy,” I should also be able to identify every vintage Speedmaster reference at a glance. I studied everything – lug shape, dot over 90 bezels, fonts, engravings, text, dials – and promptly forgot it all about a week later. I got burned out before I even bought best UK Omega Speedmaster replica watches. I moved on. Ever since I’ve never seriously considered buying a Speedmaster – until recently, when two options started calling to me.
The first option was the new “Ed White” – a straight-lugged release inspired by the vintage ref. 105.003 – essentially a reissue of the original Caliber 321-powered Speedmaster. I love vintage AAA Omega fake watches, but I struggle to wear them without worry. The new release had touches of the heritage that drew me to vintage Speedies in the first place, and I could worry less about putting mileage on it.
Then, earlier this year, Omega released what was probably the most anticipated Speedmaster – or any “-master,” for that matter – in years. The hype was partly pushed by Daniel Craig being spotted in a then-unknown white-dial Speedmaster last fall at an event in New York City. This specific Swiss made replica Omega watches spotting led to a lot of speculation. After a few agonizing months for Speedy fans, we got a brand new (nearly) fully white-dialed Speedmaster for the first time since 2015’s 45th Anniversary “Silver Snoopy” – and this one wasn’t a limited edition. It was the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001. And it seems the wait was worth it.
The introducing story has garnered over 175 comments, with hundreds of thousands of pageviews. I’ve heard that the waitlist for most retailers is already over a year – maybe even longer – and two ADs jokingly begged me not to write this story for at least a few more months. “I can’t have any more people calling me about it,” one said.
I’ve only seen one in the wild. I was so excited about the new cheap Omega copy watches I figured I wouldn’t be making the wrong decision if I got one as my first Speedmaster. Then I backtracked. After all, a part of the Speedy being an icon is the black-dialed aesthetic, right? Well, if you are wrestling with that decision, want to know more about the white lacquer dial, or even the history of white Speedmasters, we’ve got you covered.
What Is The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001?
In his recent “A Week On The Wrist,” Ben said he remembered where he was when the Rolex Daytona Le Mans was announced. I had the same experience with the white dial Speedmaster. That’s funny because I generally don’t care about brands announcing new dial colors. But there I was, sitting in a hotel shortly after John Mayer previewed his new Royal Oak to the press, trying to put together our coverage. Then the Speedmaster dropped, and it blew up my entire morning.
Sitting in the hotel lobby, eating an overpriced club sandwich, I realized I couldn’t access Omega’s site for press releases, pictures – basically anything I needed for the story. I hadn’t even spent much time looking at that sneak peek from Daniel Craig, but I could tell it had quickly become the most anticipated Speedmaster in years. It wasn’t until I sorted out those issues and wrote the story that the luxury China replica Omega watches clicked. White, sporty, striking – it was the first Speedmaster that caught my eye in a while.
This is probably where I’ll take the most heat, but part of why I haven’t thought much about buying a Speedmaster – or at least a general production black dial “Moonwatch” – is that they all look so much alike. The same thing that’s great about a watch that traces back to (and before) the moon landing – the very gradual and thoughtful generational iteration – is a double-edged sword.
A few weeks ago, I saw people wearing Speedy Pros on two different days. From a distance, I couldn’t tell the references apart. That also meant I couldn’t tell much about why they wore Speedies. I love looking at someone and seeing a four-, five-, or six-digit Rolex and at least having a shot in the dark at guessing if they are collectors, general consumers, a 20-something with a four-digit Rolex they got from their dad, or something else. It also opens up the door to conversations I rarely have over Speedies.
While there have been several Speedmasters with white dials over the years – and we’ll get to some of those shortly – this is the first regular production (non-limited edition) mainline (wholesale fake Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches Professional) in stainless steel with a white dial. That itself might be hard to believe. Stop by any Omega retailer, and you will likely see Speedmasters with white dials, from the “White Side of the Moon” to several “Speedmaster Racing” and other two-counter models. But the Moonwatch is a different beast. An icon. Something that one shouldn’t mess with. There are probably some people who will see March 5, 2024, as the day Omega ruined the Moonwatch with a white dial. However, the fact that Omega did the white dial and came up with a watch with this much character breathes a lot of life into the lineup.
In 2021, Omega released their most recent generation of the Speedmaster Professional in stainless steel, part of an uninterrupted lineage that goes back to that original Moonwatch. There were two options in steel, one with a Hesalite (plastic) crystal, like the Speedmasters used in space, and a “sapphire sandwich” model with a sapphire crystal on the front and back, allowing you to see the new (current generation) caliber 3861 Co-Axial Master Chronometer hand-wound movement inside. It’s a great-looking movement, enjoyable to watch work, and finished well for something so mass-produced. In addition to the famous co-axial escapement on the caliber 3861, the balance is free-sprung, with a Si14 Silicon balance spring that helps make the movement antimagnetic up to 15,000 gauss. The movement also features 50 hours of power reserve. A hand-wound chronograph movement is always my first choice, at least when there’s no date or calendar to worry about if the Swiss movements Omega super clone watches sits unworn for a while, and there are few with a more iconic lineage.
This is a white dialed version of the “sapphire sandwich,” measuring 42mm by 13.18mm with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug, with twisted lugs; it’s basically the same dimensions as the original Moonwatch – reference 105.012 – worn by Buzz Aldrin on the moon, and it comes with 50m of water resistance. You don’t get that extra touch of history of the Hesalite, which also magnifies the dial. You also don’t get the “Hippocampus” logo on the back or any new engravings done for the recent generation. Instead, it’s the scratch-resistant sapphire on the front and back. The caseback features an engraving around the edge that states: “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” and “First Watch Worn On The Moon,” as well as an applied “Omega” logo symbol on the dial instead of the printed alternative. The bezel is steel, with an aluminum insert and a “dot over 90” marking on the tachymeter scale like that original watch. Details like that D.O.N. bezel make a world of difference to Speedmaster lovers who spend so much time studying the minutiae of what makes one watch different from another.
The other improvements in this generation range from substantial to subtle. The biggest for day-to-day wear was a much improved 20mm to 15mm tapered bracelet with an extension that gives you between one-third and two-thirds of a link. It feels less dainty and potentially fragile than the old bracelet and far more comfortable. It did pull some arm hairs out on the first few wears, but eventually, that stopped. The more subtle change was the return of the “step” that the Speedmaster used to have on the black varnished dial until around 1974. Yes, that step is still there on the new white dial, and it looks nice, but there’s no way that’s the first thing you notice.
This decision to change a single design point – the dial – is very on-brand with how Omega has developed the Speedmaster historically. The company has avoided massive upheavals like a ceramic bezel or new case design with the new top Omega replica watches; they’ve just made one solid change. The dial has touches of red with the text for “Speedmaster” and on the tip of the chronograph hand – something that’s proven a bit divisive among buyers, but adds a bit of pop that I like. It also stands out against the otherwise black text, diamond mirror-polished applied hour markers, and diamond mirror-polished hands, all covered in black PVD. The Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices is white and glows green. I spent a lot of time over the week looking at the watch closely, taking it off my wrist, and studying each part. But even as a complete package, at a quick glance, the white dial works phenomenally. No single element stands out like a sore thumb. I know it’s a cliché, but the new dial made me smile every time I looked down.
According to the press release inspired by the white NASA suits of the Apollo astronauts and the red elements, like the red lines on the suits since Apollo 13 in 1970, which underline the commander’s rank. Every press release and watch tends to have a bit of justification for storytelling purposes, but I just think it looks good. Omega has said elsewhere that it’s very complex to produce these white lacquered dials while keeping all the details (such as the sub-dial circular graining) visible, which has apparently slowed down the brand’s production of these best quality fake Omega watches. And yet, the white dial only costs $100 more than the traditional “sapphire sandwich:” $8,100.
For people like me who haven’t looked at a Speedmaster in a while, that might feel a bit expensive. You can get an early Speedmaster, like a ref. 145.022, for up to half the price in fair condition. But that’s not what you’re getting here. This is the top-of-the-line representation of everything Omega is doing right now. It also might look – on paper – to be a bit large or thick, but I never once thought that while wearing it for over a week. It’s incredible to think how perfect Omega got it nearly right from the start, over 60 years ago. As a complete package, it’s become a new frontrunner for my next watch – if I can get one, that is.
The Other White Dial Speedmasters
While a white-dialed Speedmaster might be new to the general production Moonwatch lineup, it’s far from a new thing for Omega. We likely all know the history of the Omega Speedmaster and its ties to space exploration. It was worn during the first American spacewalk as part of NASA’s Gemini 4 mission. It then famously was the first watch worn by an astronaut walking on the moon on July 20, 1969, during the Apollo 11 mission.
While the replica Omega watches for sale involved in those feats largely looked the same as the Speedmasters of today, specifically with black dials, there’s also a long history of white-dialed Speedmasters, dating to the same year as the moon landing. Before we get to the comparisons on the market, let’s take a look at the other white dials in the Moonwatch lineup. If you’re into history, buckle up. If you’re just here for the modern stuff, you can skip ahead. I won’t hold it against you.
The Alaska Project
In the late 1960s, NASA engineer James (Jim) H. Ragan, who had previously worked on the testing procedures for Swiss made Omega replica watches and cameras for the Apollo project, was developing specifications for the equipment that astronauts would use on future manned spaceflights. Omega began working on their offering, codenamed the “Alaska Project.” The project name “Alaska” has little to do with the state besides its name. Omega used code words for a lot of its projects to reduce industrial espionage, and Omega would use this codename into the 1970s. The result was the O.G. white dial Speedmaster.
The two goals were a shockproof and highly temperature-resistant watch, so the first Speedmaster prototype that Omega completed according to these requests was the titanium Alaska Project in 1969. The movement, based on Omega’s caliber 861, used different materials and oils to withstand high temperatures, and the titanium case was protected by a red outer case made of anodized aluminum. More importantly the watch had a silver/white dial to better reflect sunlight and heat, plus space-capsule shaped subdial hands for legibility.
A second version of the watch, the Alaska Project II, with a more traditional case and matte zinc-coated white dial, did make it to NASA for testing, but it was rejected by NASA as too expensive. It wouldn’t be the last time Omega tried to improve on the Speedmaster (without being asked). However, the 2024 1:1 fake Omega watches eventually made it to space on the wrists of Soviet cosmonauts from 1977 to 1981.
The ‘Italian Albino’ Ref. 3593.20.00
Omega wouldn’t release another Moonwatch with a white dial until 1997, when they released a limited edition for the 40th anniversary of the Speedmaster, sold only in Italy, and produced for one year only in a total of 500 pieces. That watch, the ref. 3593.20.00, would become known as the “Italian Albino” or “Bianco Italiano.”
The watch has a creamy-colored dial rather than stark white. The main indices are white, with black surrounds and black text, and the hands are black with white lume. Those black surrounds really pop off the dial but in a different way than the new Speedmaster. This was one of the first high quality replica Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches models to feature the caliber 1863 movement – a movement finished to be featured through a sapphire caseback. That makes this the first “sapphire sandwich” Moonwatch (with a sapphire crystal and caseback) before the ref. 3573.50. The watch also features Luminova dial markers and hands after the discontinuation of tritium in 1997.
The Japan-Exclusive Mitsukoshi Speedmaster And The 35th Apollo 11 Speedmaster
In 2003, Omega did a collab with Japan’s oldest department store, Mitsukoshi. Limited to 300 pieces, this “panda” style Speedmaster (ref. 3570.31) has kind of a cult following. In fact, it was one of the Speedmasters I thought about the most back in the day. People even made aftermarket dials to have similar Omega fake watches for men since prices on the Mitsukoshi LE have now gone sky-high. That can make finding a correct example rather tricky.
A year later, Omega put out a Speedmaster to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the Apollo XI mission, and it looks an awful lot like the Mitsukoshi, just made in much greater quantities – 3,500 in total. The ref. 3569.31 has a picture of a bald eagle landing on the lunar surface with the Earth in the background. Pretty badass. It also has a touch of red on the dial – the text “July 20, 1969” for the moon landing. These go for a lot less than the Mitsukoshi: around $10,000 gets you a cool piece of history.
The Return Of The Alaska Project
Like Tudor would later do with the P.01, in 2008, Omega decided to reissue a watch that only ever existed as a prototype. The new Alaska Project, ref. 311.32.42.30.04.001, used the case reference 145.0022, similar to the Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50, but used a dial similar to the Alaska Project II. It was released in a total edition of 1,970 pieces and apparently took a little while to sell out. I wish I had been into watches (well, and had more than a high-schooler’s income) back then because sign me up.
The reissue also came with the red exterior case for the Omega replica watches shop, and it has been one of my favorites. As Cole Pennington said in 2021, like most white-dialed Speedmasters, these have already gone into the stratosphere, hovering around $20,000. If there’s one Speedmaster I could own, this would probably be it. Instead, I’ll have to settle for the MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars” instead.
The 2015 Speedmaster Silver Snoopy
In 2015, Omega brought out a new limited edition Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” watch to commemorate the 45th anniversary of Omega being honored by NASA with the Silver Snoopy Award. This story from 2020 is an excellent primer on that award and why Snoopy appears on so many Speedmasters (and even MoonSwatches).
The watch, released in 1970 pieces, sold out the day of its launch – or rather, was fully allocated to every retailer who quickly sold the Omega replica watches paypal to their customers. This watch had another pure black and white dial, with Snoopy sleeping in the nine o’clock subdial, dreaming up a thought bubble that says, “Failure is not an option,” under the name of the watch at 12 o’clock. Snoopy (as well as the hands, surrounds for the indices, and bezel numbers) grow in green lume. People now ask over $40,000 for this white-dialed Speedmaster on the secondary market, despite the fact that the total number of pieces made represents far less than a single day’s production capabilities for Omega.
The 2020 Speedmaster Silver Snoopy
In 2020, we got the return of the Snoop Dog – no, not that one, the other one. The 2020 Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy” was probably the other most coveted Speedmaster we’ve seen in the last five years. Released for the 50th Anniversary of the Silver Snoopy award, the watch had a blue and white “panda” dial configuration with a blue aluminum bezel and Snoopy wearing a space suit in the nine o’clock subdial.
The real trick was on the back, however. The caseback has Snoopy flying around on a spaceship that actually moves across the back of the watch. Meanwhile, the depiction of the earth on the back rotates as well. Whether it was the blue color or cool caseback, wait lists stretched a decent length of time during the pandemic. But here’s the best part: the watch wasn’t limited in number, just limited in production. You might have to wait a bit, but you can still get it, and it will run you $10,600. In fact, with that release, Omega stopped their habit of releasing limited edition Omega fake watches store – everything Speedmaster since has been, at worst, only limited production.
The Canopus Gold Speedmaster
I’m cheating by including the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in Canopus gold. Sure, it’s not cased in stainless steel like the rest of the Swiss best replica Omega watches listed here, but in some ways, it looks closest to what I’m reviewing today. This watch, launched in 2021 alongside the other Caliber 3861 pieces, has a silver-white sunburst dial with a raised pie-pan shape and sunken subdials like the rest of the modern Speedmaster family. The text, unlike the white lacquer dial, is pure black and white.
The case and bracelet are a mix of white gold (75%), palladium, platinum, and rhodium, contributing to the massive retail price of $55,000. However, you can find them new on the secondary market at $25,000 or more off the list price without much effort.